Detached buttonhole: learn the two types
Another way to fill shapes in your embroidery designs :)
Many of the photos below have been warned!
Therefore, this month's crochet is a separate buttonhole ! Or rather, the technique of the month, as these points actually have some differences, and the name could even be extended to the general snag technique (which we hope to cover in a future article).
But I refused.
If you are unfamiliar with common buttonhole embroidery, read these letters first:
I recommend trying it on an extra piece of cloth first, at least most of the time, to get a feel for how it works. Although you can actually work with separate tabs without any training!
Let's start the lesson now because it's very long.
Enter 1 separate tab: FREE
I work with this with wire.
First we need to define the shape. I used a chain stitch , but otherstitches also work : back ,chest , split. Now if you aim for perfection, you can work evenly on the right and left sides. In this case, they will serve as a sort of distinction.
I'm usually cool so my layers aren't perfectly balanced, they just serve as outlines. That's why I have no value and I have to trust my intuition, but I don't mind, haha.
Begin the first row of plain buttonholes as follows: Insert the needle through the fabric on one side of the shape, just below the point, and thread the needle vertically down through one of the line stitches. . Notice how at this point the end of the working thread is placed under the tip of the needle.
Extend the needle to form a circle. Leave it loose enough, don't pull it too hard. But also stay fit, you know? Well, you will, once you try!
Continue working the stitches in the same way, remembering to slip the needle under the end of the top stitch and tucking the working thread from the bottom.
Once you've made the final circle, insert the needle on the other side of the shape, just below the top layer to reflect what you did in the first step.
Now go through the fabric on the same side and repeat all the steps except now insert the loop over the loop in the top row.
Complete!
By the way, for this weaving technique it is always better to use a blunt needle so as not to overload the thread fibers. But I was too lazy to look for it in the shelter, so I just moved the needle and eye of the needle down.
If you take a closer look at the curls of different rows, you will notice a slight difference in their shape. This is because with each line we change direction. But it's pretty hard to tell the difference without taking a closer look, so we can make some sacrifices to save the thread, right?
It won't work for other types of regular grommets, but...
Once done, we need to secure the last row. To do this, make a loop as usual, tuck the end of the working thread under the needle, and then pass the needle under one of the points all around.
This will secure the loop for the seam.
Do the same with the other loop from the last row.
Great insurance!
Results. Well it's not quite as neat but it's practice so I don't sweat much haha.
I actually use this separate tab for paper in this pattern ! You can see that you can work with bad form. It gets a little tricky, but you just have to calculate how the lines are laid out.
Two separate buttonhole types: tight weave
The procedure is pretty much the same, the basic movement is the same - we just add one more element.
For this shape I used 3 strands of yarn to make the weaving tighter. If I used dental floss it would be a little more roomy, but I wanted to show you how to get that "heavy" effect.
So manipulate your outline, I'm using a folder here. Then go into the fabric on one side of the drawing and thread the needle at the same level on the other side. This way you will create a giant straight stitch that lays horizontally on top of the fabric.
And then, on the same side where you inserted the needle last time, go a little under the strip and make a loop. The loop works as before: the needle slides through the stitch above, except the needle also passes under the tape before folding under the working thread itself. So remember: under the dot above, below the band, but above
work subject.
This is how you fix the stitch in the loop. You can then continue working completely by repeating the previous steps.
When you get to the other side, you need to create a new placket and start another row of separate buttonholes.
Basically, you always start with one hand. By weaving and counting these threads, if you start a new row of loops on the other side, the difference will become even more pronounced. However, you can't possibly go to the other side because you're always coming back to the same thing doing another bar. But I say that if your topic ends and you want to continue on the other side. The difference in the rings will be clearly visible!
Now let's talk about the setup loop. I have two suggestions.
If you're working the last row of stitches, you can also lower the contour stitch here. So, the sequence is: under the loop above, under the ribbon, under the contour seam, above the working thread.
This creates a kind of cornice.
Another option is to work the last row of stitches completely (I split it in half to show you how it looks) and then knit each loop like you would knit a ruffle stitch .
It could look like this. You can also fix it directly to the contour point!
I used method 1 to save the transfer as it will expire soon haha.
In fact, it could work even tighter. In addition, the background is almost without drones. To do this, shorten the loop - you'll be jumping back every second as you work the front row, but you can create loops for each.
So here are some new ways to fill in shapes when embroidering. One filling opens like a grid, and the other...half-solid, should I say? It depends how hard you work and how thick your yarn is!
Welcome to here! See you in the next lesson! :)
