The Real Detached Buttonhole
What does a "real" button hole mean? Were other lessons related to this sewing false? Let's teach! ;)
So, the bottom line... You can find a great mix of hand-embroidered stitch names.
Such confusion is associated with sewing on a blanket and buttons , which I wrote about here . In short, what we now call sewing on buttons was called sewing on blankets. And many seamstresses who appreciate the old-school nomenclature still call it that. So, in principle, today this item has received two names: a blanket ակային a button item. However, there is an original bone marrow, little known today ...
The confusion continues when you start looking at the highlighted button. Помимо того, что мы узнали в прошлом месяце — эта техника называется вышивкой — есть еще одна техника с таким же названием — «отдельная дырочка для пуговицы».
How did it happen?
Actually I don't have an answer.
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In my humble opinion, the technique we are going to learn today is the "real" button hole that can be removed because it can no longer be removed. If anyone could say it.
But who knows? The secrets of hand embroidery are huge and rich. You can write a book on this subject.
In any case, the loop that we are going to look at today is a common ազ knitting technique in Brazilian embroidery. Of course, this does not mean that you cannot use it in other projects.
The items you use in this technique are enlarged, measured and become very realistic as you master them.
My technique for this technique is still quite low, it requires even more experience: perseverance. But I'll show you the basics և you can practice in your spare time :)
Separate hole for buttons.
If you are new to this subject, especially if you do not have sharp eyesight, I recommend using a thicker rope for exercise. This will make it easier to see the curves, their "roofs", you can count them if you forget how much you have done.
Here I am using 4 cotton threads.
First sew directly to the base of your image with a separate button hole. The length of the seam corresponds to the desired width of your image. Then bring the needle up to the fabric at one end of this straight point. The first row will be knitted from left to right, so I moved the needle to the left.
Now make a hole in the button, insert the needle under the main point, making sure that the working end of the thread is behind the needle.
By the way, if you see me pressing down on the tip of the needle, I'm doing it for clearer shots. In fact, at such points, I move through the needle hole. If you have a sharp needle, I recommend doing the same.
The curve we created. Do the other 4 in the same way.
The first row is over. So, look at the arrow in the picture above. Shows the "roof" of the curve. I will refer to you as such in this article. Here the second row of curves will slide under the needle as it starts to work.
Now go right to left. To add new curves to the second line, we use pre-designed curves - their "roofs". Remember that the working thread must always reach the needle.
Now stick the needle under the second "roof" and make another slope. And keep it up.
The second row is over. So I pointed to a thicker string. All rings on the screen can be easily separated. I made 5 turns in the first line, 5 turns in the second.
To continue on the third row, you need to add your curves to the "roofs" of the curves below.
So I did 4 rows of 5 bends in each. Sounds square, doesn't it?
Well, I think the need for square work in hand embroidery is very rare, so give it a petal or a master egg.
To do this, we must reduce it. If the width of the base is 5 slopes, we can reduce it to 3 curves, a few rows, and then 1 more.
If you cut the egg, you can sometimes stick it under the "roof" next to the needle to release the bend, do the same on the other side.
In my square there are 2 rows of 3 curves.
Now I want to make a curve on the horse. I want to pass it along the average curve of the last 3 parts. So I push the needle back. Move the rope so that it protrudes from the front.
And then make a standard curve.
Here's a tip. Now you can attach the needle to the fabric by inserting it anywhere.
If you want to lift the pattern, keep it in a separate position, you can throw it over the edge of the egg by moving the thread to the fabric. It is best to do this in each row so that there is no unnecessary tension on the rope.
Then insert the needle into the mold.
If you want to make the horse not thinner, but wider, then on the “roof” you can make 2 slopes. In the picture above, I have formed a narrow base for my painting - 3 slopes. On the next row, I worked 2 sts from each previous row, so I got 6 folded. Work on another row in 6 shifts. And then we add 2 rings, 1 on each side, for a total of 8 on the fourth row. So, 3 + 6 + 6 + 8.
I left the same number of rings in more rows and then trimmed them to go up two tops. I made a few rings on one side, then put the needle under the unused "roof" and made a few rings on the other side.
And here we finish the set of our special buttons. It was a real journey. I like this technique, but I know that it still needs to be worked on. Maybe I'll come back with more tips when I get the best results (hopefully).
